The Other Critics: Cheshes Pans Montmartre; Joshua David Stein Reports on Carbone

Cheshes calls Gabriel Stulman and Tien Ho's food "off-key." This week, New York's Adam Platt revisited the Graydon Carter-revamped Beatrice Inn, finding that the cuisine is now as impressive as the scene. Under new chef Hillary Sterling, "world-class" goat cheese gnudi and "deliciously tart" lemon curd are dazzling enough to ignore the boldfaced clientele at neighboring tables. Two stars. Where did the other critics go to dine? We serve that up, straight ahead. Jay Cheshes says Montmartre, Gabri...