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UFA, Russia -- In a large restaurant overlooking a snowy Soviet-era horseracing track, a noisy birthday party for a young girl is under way. Outside, it's the harsh Russian winter. Inside, the guests are feasting on traditional dishes of Bashkortostan, a federal "subject" of Russia of which Ufa is the capital. Some still have their coats on as they glance between the slices of horsemeat on their plates and the horses being trained on the frozen track of the Akbuzat Hippodrome beyond the windows.
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