How To Stage A Secret Play On New York City's Most Festering, Polluted Waterway

Actor E. James Ford, clad as a fuzzy, steampunk version of the Greek demigod Charon, dips a mason jar into the stewing Gowanus Canal. He raises it toward the dark sky, reflecting yards of concrete and chain link fence and the logo of a nearby Whole Foods in the murky liquid. He studies it for a second, puts it down. A few minutes later, he takes a sip. It's a frigid Sunday night in late autumn, and I'm watching Ford from a wooden pew on a pontoon boat designed by celebrated street artist Swoon. ...