Plate Lab: Cod roe spaghetti from Daikaya Izakaya makes great late-night food

In an international smackdown of salty-creamy pastas, I'd give the Japanese contender the edge over Italy's beloved spaghetti carbonara. A tidy bowl of cod roe spaghetti is food that satisfies late at night, say, after an evening of visiting your favorite bartenders. It offers crunch, color and a certain aesthetic, sauced in pale pink and set off by glistening fish roe, shredded nori and fragrant lemon zest.