Reinventing the Lentil

San Francisco Magazine Josh Sens Eva Kolenko Two new modern Indian restaurants reject convention in favor of adventure, with frequently pleasurable results. For years, my take on northern Indian food in San Francisco was something like my view of marital sex: nice, but not exactly filled with wild surprises. No matter where I strayed—a tandoori house in the Tenderloin, a curry joint in the Avenues—I could count on the rich comforts of lamb korma and the vinegary twang of chicken vindaloo. Su...