The 40-Year-Old Virgin

San Francisco Magazine Josh Sens Cayce Clifford As a successor to Bay Wolf, the Wolf brings fresh comfort to Piedmont Avenue. Nostalgia isn’t what it used to be. In restaurants, at least, it is mostly manufactured. We see it in dining rooms dressed as throwback supper clubs; in menus filled with revived childhood favorites; in archival cocktails assembled by bartenders barely old enough to drink. There’s nothing wrong with this sort of theater. But it’s nice when the settings aren’t so s...