A Breed Apart

San Francisco Magazine Josh Sens Patricia Chang Niku Steakhouse creates a blowout dining experience with wagyu beef. On a drizzly spring evening in the Design District, I was sitting at the chef’s counter at Niku Steakhouse, sipping sake, gnawing on a strip of boutique beef jerky and soaking up a culinary disquisition that could have almost passed for a eugenics lecture. It came from a man working a charcoal fire, who spoke of fatty calves and musculature and the proliferation of propaganda th...