Bibi, London W1: 'Genius and subversive' - restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

'I'd happily bathe in the peanut sauce, sploshing it about my armpits and behind my ears, before dressing without showering' Bibi is a new high-end opening in the capital, of which there is currently no shortage. "High-end" is a coy way that hospitality people communicate the notion of imported chandeliers, four-ply loo roll, complex cocktails, teensy portions on beautiful tableware and, outside, a Mercedes-AMG wagon being clamped by Westminster council. These restaurants have survived the Covid...