Chain restaurants are a moment of dependable zen on a helterskelter day | Grace Dent on restaurants

They may never dazzle, but your favourite fast food chain never really burns its bridges Restaurant food can be the epitome of comfort eating. That may sound a strange thing to say, because the entire process of visiting a restaurant requires pulling on a combo of accoutrements to make yourself acceptable to the outside world: pants, matching socks, mascara. It also usually involves a painful experience with a parking app and a table troublingly close to "other people", whom we all by and large ...