The myth of traditional Italian cuisine has seduced the world. The truth is very different | Alberto Grandi

The comforting tourist-brochure idea of what Italian food looks like obscures a story shaped by hunger, migration and innovationAlberto Grandi is the author of La Cucina Italiana Non Esiste and a professor of food history at the University of ParmaItalys cuisine has now joined Unescos intangible heritage list, an announcement greeted within the country with the sort of collective euphoria usually reserved for surprise World Cup runs or the resignation of an unpopular prime minister. Not because ...