Zylia, London W1: Its not trying to reimagine Greek-Cypriot cuisine - restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

It may have only just opened, but this restaurant has about it the feel of a family taverna thats already been here for about 62 yearsTheres a brand new Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden, London, thats offering taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko, kaimaki ice-cream and all the rest. Yet Zylia, which is pale, humbly furnished and deliberately homespun in its styling, somehow has about it the feel of a family taverna thats been here for about 62 years. You know the sort: up a cobble...